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Andre et Florence Mejan

Domaine de Valery, Domaine Méjan-Taulier (Canto Perdrix)

Southern Rhône reds are too alcoholic and tiring for drinking during the hot southern summer, and southern whites are unable to stand up to the strength of many Provençal dishes. Whence rosé, which even today is often a better match for salmon or lamb or Bouillabaisse than either red or white. A serious rosé has a serious place at the table.

André Méjan and his son-in-law, Franck Popek, have created just such a serious Tavel Rosé.The complexity of their wines comes from the complexity of their vineyard sites (they have 11 different parcels) or terroirs, their palette of grape varieties, and their vinification. Méjan disposes of all three of the classic terroirs of Tavel in his 35 hectare vineyard
with 10 different grape varieties: sandy soil to the east-southeast of the village for fine, elegant aromatics and flavors; to the north, a “Châteauneuf-du-Pape” type plateau covered with rounded quartzite cobblestones over red clay/sand for strength and fullness; and sharply jagged, bright-white limestone rock over clay-limestone soil to the south-southwest for aromatic finesse, bright, “cool” character. Some growers think that a complete, balanced Tavel requires all three terroirs.

The domaine looks after its vineyard with meticulous attention. For more than 10 years, they have eliminated all use of herbicides and weedkillers. Pesticides are administered parsimoniously to respect the natural setting and only if necessary. The principal ally of the domaine is the Mistral which permits a clean vineyard, exempt from maladies. The domaine harvests the grapes by hand; the entire vinification process is semi-artisanale: the only concession to modernism is the use of cold temperatures for fermentation. The grapes are harvested whole and vinified in their own natural yeasts, without any chemical yeasts. Fining is done only if necessary and after the fermentation to minimize its impact on the quality of the final product.

Finally, in vinifiying a Tavel, the grapes are not pressed immediately. Rather, the must is allowed to macerate on the skins for anywhere from 24 to 72 hours before being drawn off. Additionally, the solids which remain are then pressed ,but the press is much lighter than would be the case for a red wine to conserve finesse. This press wine is also incorporated into the finished wine. All other rosés, almost without exception, are made either from directly pressed juice that is not allowed to rest on the skins or only from free-run juice taken off the skins after a short maceration. Press wine is never blended back into the wine. Whence the power, complexity and, for Rosé, the longevity of Tavels like Méjan's.

One might call the Domaine de Valéry Tavel Rosé the “salmon” style of Tavel, because of its color and because it fairly cries out for a grilled salmon steak. The wine is firm and very long. It can be cellared: indeed, many of Tavel's greatest partisans think it is ideally drunk at about 3 years of age. With age, the "nutty" or "meaty" aromas increase; it is dry, rich and complexly flavored. This is a spicy, fruity wine with aromas reminiscent of hot, sunbaked hillsides. If allowed to aerate about 45 minutes before drinking, aromas of peaches?to?apricots, rose and a characteristic "nuttiness" emerge. The Domaine de Valéry uses 10 different grape varieties in their Tavel Rosé: approximately 60% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 5% Syrah (all red grape varieties) + 20% mixed between: Carnignan (red), Mourvèdre (red), and, in varying amounts, some very small, Picpoul (white), Clairette (white and rose), Bouboulenc (white), Grenache (white).

Lirac contains some of the Southern Rhône's most overlooked gems. It is a small appellation, half the size of Gigondas. In the 19th century, Lirac was one of the most highly regarded wines of the Southern Rhône. Consumers who can find first rate Liracs like Méjan's will be getting near Chateauneuf quality for a Villages price. Lirac, however, is not a "poor man's Chateauneuf." Its style is too different. The cooler, more moderate climate produces wines of great finesse. They demand gentle handling. Méjan's Lirac is never put into wood. Its cuvaison is 8-10 days. Méjan’s Lirac is one of the most powerful and masculine of all Liracs, rich and dense with flavors of dark red fruits, cool aromas of fresh wild green herbs (sage, thyme, even mint), resin or tar, and, with time, leather. . Méjan's Lirac consists normally of 60% + Grenache, 15% + Syrah, 10-15% Mourvèdre, and 5% - 10% Cinsault, Bourboulenc and Picpoul. He harvests by hand, thus avoiding the damage to stems and extraction of hard stem tannins that comes with mechanical harvesting. Méjan vinifies with whole, un-destemmed bunches, so hand harvesting is, for him, mandatory. He uses a pneumatic press, which is very gentle and gives him a very high quality press wine to incorporate into the finished wine. This wine will keep and improve for many years.